Still enjoying its long reign as the most popular of all jacket styles, the two button, single breasted fastening has just three rules. The first, and most crucial is never fasten both buttons. The top button, closest to the lapel break, is all you need. As for the second? See rule one…
To confine oneself in one’s jacket by completely buttoning up is the original cardinal sin of sartorial men’s style. Beautifully made bespoke jackets such as the two seen here (both with their straight pockets and additional out tickets) recently hand crafted by Redwood and Feller head cutter Elliott Rowland and just back from the presser, are strategically cut in such a way as to elongate the wearer’s torso and give them a broader chest. Meticulous measuring followed by flawlessly clean craftsmanship has ensured that the recipients of these jackets will be able to fasten the top button at the perfect position to complement their respective body shapes.
By fastening the top button and the top button only, a single breasted jacket should fall into an aesthetically pleasing and slimming ‘butterfly effect’ with the left and right panels of the jacket radiating out from the central fastening. This is not to say that the jacket should look stretched out from this focal point as an ill fittingly small blazer would. Indeed, the jacket should naturally fall in this way, and you should be able to fit your fist comfortably between the jacket fastening and your stomach. Although a bespoke suit jacket will still look impressive, even with both buttons fastened – the correct etiquette for a gentleman is to keep just the top fastened. Besides, this makes it easier to comply with rule number three – Always unbutton a jacket completely whenever you’re about to be seated.
With just one button fastened, it’s easier to look effortlessly chic as you unbutton your jacket with just one hand before taking a seat. This allows freedom of movement as well as avoiding putting unnecessary pressure on the fastening, which can cause creasing, and stretching of the material. A well made bespoke jacket will have been cut just so that it won’t flail away from the body when undone.
Obviously other jacket styles come with their own set of rules too. One button is easy – just follow rule three of the two button. Three buttons is pretty straightforward as well. Just remember “Sometimes, always, never.” Basically, this means you should sometimes fasten the top button (as a matter of personal preference) always fasten the middle, and never button the third. When it comes to a double-breasted jacket, it is though best to leave the bottom button undone when standing. In fact, even when sitting, the double-breasted jacket should still remain fastened.